FIT FOR A QUEEN
A mountaineering expedition on Monte Rosa just like the expeditions in the Himalayas, the Karakorum or the Andes. This expedition may be in Italy but it still has the same spirit of adventure seen on all great foreign expeditions. It starts from Alagna Valsesia and follows the route that took Queen Margherita to the top of Monte Rosa in 1893.
The main aim of our expedition is to climb Signalkuppe to where the highest refuge in Europe has been built at 4,554 metres above sea level: the famous Margherita refuge.
It is futile trying to describe just how stunning the views are from up there, not only are they breathtaking but they will leave you speechless as well. The panoramic view takes in the entire Alpine Range: from Monte Viso to the Gran Paradiso and across to Mont Blanc, and then the Matterhorn, the Monte Rosa Massif’s “Four-Thousanders”, the majestic Grenz glacier around to the Swiss mountains. The atmosphere becomes even more magical at sunset as the faraway city lights illuminate the plains and the last of the sun’s rays reflect off the walls of the refuge. If you are lucky you may even catch a glimpse of the Madonnina statue on the top of Milan Cathedral or the sea on the horizon. And if it’s a really special evening, the Brocken spectre may even appear.
This programme does not require any special mountaineering skills. It is a trekking expedition across the valleys of Monte Rosa, with the help of donkeys or mules to transport the gear, through Otro, the Zube Pass, Col d’Olen, and the Passo dei Salati until we reach our first base camp: the Gnifetti mountain refuge at 3,647 metres above sea level, from which we will be able to see how fit you are by climbing the nearest “Four-Thousanders”. This is where we start the climb up Signalkuppe. We cross the Lys glacier and stay overnight in the famous Margherita refuge so as not to miss out on the beauty of a spectacular sunset and sunrise, the chance of a fantastic traverse the following day, or peakbagging a couple of “Four-Thousanders” on the way back.
The Margherita refuge is one of the top destinations for anyone who loves the mountains, but only a few get to the top in a dignified fashion. Most people struggle to make it, often suffering from altitude sickness or being pulled up there by mountain guides. Failing to acclimatise properly always catches out the inexperienced “day-tripper” types who think that they can summit quickly and easily thanks to the cable car that takes them up to 3,000 metres. But it’s this sudden change in altitude that compromises the climb.
Our programme offers a more natural, slower and more gradual but safer climb during which everyone has the time they need to acclimatise and fully enjoy the journey, the overnight stays in the refuges as well as the descent without excessive effort so that they are absolutely free to experience this truly unforgettable adventure.
Programme:
Day 1: We meet in Alagna (1,154 m.), check our gear and leave on foot for Otro-Pianmisura (1,854 m.). A difference in altitude of 700 metres, 2 ½ hours. The donkeys will bring the provisions and everything needed to set up camp. Evening meal, then you can either sleep in the hut or in a tent.
Day 2: By foot up to the Zube Pass (2,874 m.). A difference in altitude of 1,020 m, 4/5 hours. Lunch and evening meal in the field. You can either sleep in a tent pitched in a spectacular spot or in the hut.
Day 3: By foot through the Passo dei Salati (2,936 m.) to the Stolemberg and on to Punta Indren (3,260 m.). Across the Indren glacier to the Gnifetti refuge (3,647 m.). A difference in altitude of 800 m, 4 hours. Evening meal and overnight stay in the refuge.
Day 4: Climb Piramide Vincent (4,215 m.). A difference in altitude of 570 m, 3 hours. Some mountaineering lessons e.g. rope techniques, using crampons, rescue manoeuvres for crevasses. Evening meal and overnight stay in the Gnifetti refuge.
Day 5: Climb along the Lys glacier through the Lysjoch (4,248 m.) and then up the Grenz Glacier, through the Colle Gnifetti (4,454 m.) to Signalkuppe and the Margherita refuge (4,554 m.). A difference in altitude of 900 metres, 4/5 hours. Evening meal and overnight stay in the refuge.
Day 6: Option of climbing the nearby Zumsteinspitze (4,561 m.) and traversing the Parrotspitze (4,436 m.), the Ludwigshöhe (4,342 m.), and the Schwarzhorn (4,322 m.). Just a small ascent of about 300/400 metres. Return to Alagna by cable car.
BOOKINGS:
TELEPHONE: +39 338 8219501
TREKKING ACROSS MONTE ROSA WITH DONKEYS
Historical information:
The Signalkuppe is also known as Punta Gnifetti in Italian and is named after Don Giovanni Gnifetti, a priest from Alagna who made the first ascent on 9th August 1842, with just a few porters from Alagna. Before this ascent it was called Punta Signal and is now known by everyone as the “Margherita”, after the refuge which stands at the summit. The refuge was dedicated to Queen Margherita of Savoy, who climbed the peak with her entourage and mountain guides and stayed the night there on 18th August 1893 when the refuge was officially opened.
Information:
Dates:
- 24th – 29th July.
- 21st – 26th August.
Pricing:
- € 870 (2-3 people).
- € 670 (4-5 people).
What’s included: a mountain guide, donkeys and all camping and shared gear, the cook and cooking expenses. The cost of the refuge and cable car is not included.
Equipment: trekking shoes and boots that can accommodate crampons, crampons, telescopic poles, an ice axe is optional, a harness and 2 karabiners with ring, a sleeping bag, a head torch, a waterproof jacket, thermal clothing and spare clothes, gloves, hat, sunglasses, sun cream, and a rucksack.
